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The Stowe Reporter
Thursday, March 30, 2006
By Reone Kraemer
On a recent cold evening, we drove with friends to Montpelier, to the warmth of Sarducci’s, where we were welcomed by Carol Paquette, one of the owners, and seated at a comfortable table.
It was only 5 p.m., but the place was beginning to fill up.
Marie, our server, took our drink orders, and brought menus, including the specials of the day. She quickly brought us warm plates and gorgeous crusty bread, served hot from a wood-burning oven (as are the pizzas and many offerings of Pasta al Forno with olive oil and butter. How welcoming!
We perused the excellent menu, discussed the choices, asked Marie some questions, and ordered.
We began with Granchio (crab cakes served with arugula and lemon vinaigrette); Polenta al Forno, polenta with sun-dried tomatoes in a mushroom cream sauce; Scampicon Linguine, jumbo shrimp sautéed and served in a vodka cream sauce with fresh basil and black pepper linguine; and a special of the day: a succulent Grilled Shrimp served on Mesclun greens with yellow and red pear tomatoes, cucumbers, red onions, olives and Feta cheese in an oregano vinaigrette. Portions are good-sized, so we took our time and enjoyed every bite.
After the dishes were taken away, our salads arrived. The greens were garden-fresh and the dressings just wonderful. We chose Balsamic, Blue Cheese, and Mustard Vinaigrette. The dressings enhanced the greens and tomatoes perfectly.
It is a pleasure to visit Sarducci’s. It is easy to relax while devouring the superb food prepared by Chris Veatch, the chef, and Jeff Finch, the sous-chef. These gentlemen work hard to prepare consistently delicious food and create new recipes.
We sipped our wine, chatted away, and awaited our main courses. The restaurant was full by this time, with people lining up patiently for tables, knowing that the food would be worth the wait.
Marie brought our main courses; Veal Marsala, Hanger Steak, Saltimbocca, and Salsiccia al Forno. The presentations were perfect, as was each dish.
The Veal Marsala, many thin slices of tender, delicate veal sautéed and served in a mushroom and Marsala wine sauce, was superb, as was the creamy risotto accompanying the dish. In both the Marsala and the Saltimbocca, the veal was pounded extraordinarily thin and cooked to a tender perfection. The proscuitto on the veal in the Saltimbocca was excellent, and the use of fresh sage was inspired. The Saltimbocca was also served with a perfect risotto.
Grilled Hanger Steak, a specialty on this particular evening, was served char-grilled on the outside and fork-tender on the inside. The accompanying green bean, buttermilk-mashed potatoes and wild mushroom red wine demiglaze, according to the diner, were “off the charts”. The pasta al forno dish (baked in the restaurant’s wood-burning oven) was filled with penne, Italian sausage, red peppers, mushrooms and red onions, served in an excellent marinara and red wine sauce, and topped with melting mozzarella cheese.
Our conversation turned only to the food we were devouring – in fact, most of the time we didn’t even speak, beyond murmurs of enjoyment.
This excellent food is the reason people will quietly wait in line at times to dine at Sarducci’s. And, yes, the desserts are just as wonderful as the rest of the food.
We chose an impeccable Crème Carmel; a rich Tiramisu in which the coffee and cream were perfectly blended; a special of the evening, Riesling Poached Pear with Ginger Sorbet and a Lemon Shortbread Cookie; and Caramel Fudge Cake, a very pretty and really delicious dessert with pecans and some of the deepest dark chocolate possible.
Sarducci’s does have a children’s menu: “bambini,” which is cheese or pepperoni pizza; spaghetti or ravioli with marinara or meat sauce; fettuccini Alfredo; or fried chicken (boneless breast): each for $4.99. Adult appetizers run from $4.99 to $8.99; soups are served by cup ($2.99) or bowl ($3.99). Salads are in the $3.50 to $8.99 range (boneless friend chicken breast with greens, roasted red peppers, artichokes, gorgonzola and an herb vinaigrette). Specialties include meals with chicken, eggplant, salmon, Black Angus steak and more, most in the $14.99 range (and portions are large). Pastas range from $8.99 to$13.99, with most in the $9 to $11 range. There’s also marvelous pizza, most of which are in the $9 range. Some of the pastas are baked (Al Forno) in the fine wood-fired ovens, as are the pizzas. The bar is fully stocked.
Sarducci’s is truly a fine place to dine, a friendly place for excellent, expertly prepared and well-priced Italian food. The staff is warm, welcoming, helpful and knowledgeable. The warm atmosphere makes all feel welcome.
Sarducci’s is at 3 Main St. in Montpelier. It is open Monday through Thursday from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 11:30 to 9:30, and Sunday from 4:30 to 9. Reservations: 802-223-0229.
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